Ferragamo’s autumn winter 2018 collaboration marks the debut season for Paul Andrew, the historic fashion house’s women’s creative director, opposite Guillaume Meilland, the men’s design director.
In the collection “a new construct of dressing emerges: familiar forms are stripped back, loosened and elongated with ease and elevated functionality. Traditional silhouettes are expertly dissolved for a contemporary take on formal codes. Materials are unrivalled: from plush leathers to Italian wool fabrics, to heavy silk twill and soft cottons. Broad strokes of colour were the starting point; merlot reds and mustard yellows mix expertly with parakeet green and deep Vatican blue between hints of nude and blush” reads a statement from Ferragamo.
Leather dominates the women’s collection: calfskin coats with soft cashmere lining combines with pull-on knee-high boots in nabuk and ostrich. Trousers are buttery thanks to Nappa leather and wool-silk blends that are exactingly cropped. Shirt-dresses are fabricated using silk foulards materials inspired by the brand’s archives. Knits are designed to complement the leather pieces: from cashmere sweater dresses to ponchos.
Galvanized block heels are available in three heights and have metallic glazing that was “finished in automobile factories.” The design was inspired by the Ferragamo styles of the 1930s. The collection also features Merino shearling knee-high boots that are dyed green and red; inspired by 70s shag pile carpeting and lined internally with lusciously soft calfskin.
Menswear is anchored by shirting in silk twill, wool, leather and shearling that feature hand-stitched finishing by master tailors. Layering is used to bring fluidity to the winter wardrobe. Cotton bonded raincoats have a relaxed, streamlined silhouette. On the inside, they are lined with printed silk with a sly hint of hidden pattern. A lengthened and oversized English donkey jacket is designed in double wool-cashmere that is matched with leather shoulders.
The all-new ‘studio bag’ in crocodile, ostrich, shearling and soft calf headlines the accessories. It is accompanied by petite camera bags and roomy overnighters with printed lining taken from cravat fabrics.
Ferragamo’s iconic logo, the Doppio Gancini, is represented in ornamental hardware: oversized on triple-cuoio soled men’s shoes and at the waist as women’s belts