Roksanda’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is more than a seasonal showcase — it’s a thoughtful meditation on the tension between nature and industrialisation, individuality and mass production. Inspired by Hungarian conceptual artist Agnes Denes and her 1982 environmental artwork “Wheatfield — A Confrontation,” the collection confronts modern disconnection with an artistic and sartorial response, reclaiming fashion as a canvas for philosophical exploration.
Set within the brutalist yet airy curves of London’s Space House, designed by George Marsh in 1968, the show merges architecture with ideology. The location becomes a fitting metaphor for Denes’ dialogue — organic ideas framed within rigid frameworks — as Roksanda sculpts silhouettes that float, structure, and reveal in equal measure. There’s a deep sense of contrast that permeates the entire collection: softness meeting strength, the body shown and obscured, the familiar transformed.
Draping is central to the narrative. Luxurious fabrics like liquid velvet and silk are shaped into deconstructed gowns, while silk-twill day dresses and wool melange tailoring pay homage to traditional men’s suiting — but from the inside out. Inner structures are exposed, echoing the themes of vulnerability and transparency that run throughout Denes’s work.
This season’s tailoring is assertive but unexpected. Circular cut-outs punctuate jackets and skirts, revealing glimpses of skin in a way that is both sensual and intelligent. The coats blend wool twill with silk organza, revealing layers beneath that are often hidden, a motif that nods once again to the unseen systems that govern both garments and societies.
Prints and textures celebrate the designer’s Serbian roots, with references to Belgrade and the dual rivers of Sava and Danube, symbolising heritage and fluidity. A tactile raffia fil-coupé evokes images of harvests, while hand-pleated recycled taffeta forms floral-inspired volumes, drawing a direct line between craftsmanship and the natural world.
Footwear adds yet another layer of subversion. In collaboration with FitFlop, Roksanda presents thigh-high boots with architectural cut-outs, pushing the limits of what utility and fashion can look like. Crafted from soft leather and trimmed in luxurious shearling, these pieces offer both function and drama — a signature Roksanda combination.
The palette is painterly and poetic: sunflower and peppermint meet Persian blue and merlot. Shades of rust and tropics mirror Denes’s earth-meets-urban vision, while soft iris and heliotrope lend an ethereal, romantic edge. Each colour is meticulously placed, not merely for effect but for mood, for message.
Roksanda’s SS25 collection is not just a statement on femininity — it is a celebration of evolution. It dares to confront industrial forces with quiet strength, elevates nature through design, and invites the wearer to be both shielded and seen. In a world of contradictions, Roksanda offers a wardrobe that is resolutely human.
