Here is Part Three of our Dubai Watch Week 2023 News and New Watches edition. This piece follows Part 1 and Part 2.
Armin Strom – Tribute 1 With Fumé Dials And Guilloché Plates
According to Claude Greisler, Armin Strom’s Co-Founder and Master Watchmaker, “The Tribute 1 is a twist on the classic dress watch – literally. From its slender 38 mm steel case with the crown unusually positioned at 2 o’clock, to the off-centred small dial displaying the hours, minutes and seconds, there’s harmony in its asymmetry.”
The model unveiled at DWW23 presents the four new fumé dials in ocean, slate, sky and burgundy colours, with each limited to 10 pieces. The fumé dials give new depth to the signature three-dimensional Tribute 1 dials. Its vignette effect, which has a distinctly 1970s vibe, creates a striking gradient of bright highlights at the centre of the dial that gives way to shadowy contrast towards the outer edge.
With a sunray-brushed finish on the metallic base, the dial is animated by light, which can bring out the different tonalities and shades of the four dials’ colours. This spectacular effect is further heightened by the anthracite guilloché plate, which is handcrafted by an independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.
Chopard – Alpine Eagle Summit
Chopard presented four new 41 mm-diameter Alpine Eagle Summit models, each debuting a combination of dials in luminous shades, bezels set with a gemstone gradient and cases crafted in the brand’s signature ethical 18-carat yellow, white or rose gold.
The “Golden Peak” dial has a yellow gold case and a bezel adorned with pink sapphires between the eight screws. The “Zinal Blue” dial has a white gold case with blue and purple sapphires on the bezel. The “Vals Grey” dial blends with a range of tsavorites in soft, revitalising shades of green and a white gold case. The “Pink Dawn” dial is complemented by the orange tones of the spessartites on the bezel and the rose gold case. Each of the four dials features the emblematic eagle-eye radiating pattern.
Chopard – L.U.C Strike One
Chopard’s new L.U.C Strike One chiming model, a 25-piece limited edition, is presented in ethical 18-carat white gold. The watch chimes the passing of each hour on a Chopard-patented monobloc sapphire in a manner that combines rich acoustics and emotional depth.
Equipped with the new L.U.C 96.32-L movement, this refined 40 mm-diameter timepiece is chronometer-certified and bears the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Its solid gold grey-green dial is hand-guilloché with a honeycomb motif. With its crown-integrated pusher, its slender 9.86 mm size and its crystal-clear sound, the L.U.C Strike One model endows the passing of time with an elegantly resonant dimension.
Girard-Perregaux – Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition
Building on their official partnership with Aston Martin, Girard-Perregaux presents the fifth co-branded timepiece – a new addition to its Bridges collection. The 250-piece limited Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition showcases functional components often hidden from view and brings them to the fore. Inspired by Aston Martin’s DB12, the new watch reflects the car’s sculpted contours and sharp lines.
Upholding the spirit of the Bridges collection, the functional components of this model contribute to its overall visual allure. The two Neo-shaped bridges, in Aston Martin Green, support the gear train and balance. Skeletonised baton-type indexes proclaim the hours and minutes. The hands incorporate green luminescent material. The suspended indexes, located on a ring encircling the dial, project outwards and are also lined with green luminescent. In between each index, crisp green markings, positioned on the aforesaid ring, denote each minute in lucid form. The watch is powered by GP084000-2164 Self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 48 hours.
Reservoir – Abdulla Lutfi Limited-Edition
Reservoir Watch’s latest collaboration with the renowned Emirati artist Abdulla Lutfi distinguishes itself with its dial-art – depicting a colourful and playful urban scene. The symbolic skyscrapers of Dubai form a dynamic backdrop interspersed with recurring patterns in windows, antennae, and other architectural elements. Different shades of blue depict the metropolis, while contrasting tones provide depth and perspective. A delightful figure donning a dishdasha exudes energy and joy as he merrily runs around, clutching a musical note that symbolizes the rhythm and melody of city life.
The stainless steel watch is powered by the RSV-240 self-winding mechanical movement, and is fastened with a leather strap. Each piece is engraved with “1 of 25,” and the accompanying box also features an urban skyline illustration, the figure dancing with glee, the signature “Abdullah Lutfi,” and the “Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons” stamp. An extra touch is the special embroidery inside the box, showcasing an original Abdullah Lutfi drawing.
Ressence TYPE 1° DX3
The third and final chapter of a six-year partnership between Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and the independent watchmaker, the TYPE 1 DX3 is a 35 pieces limited edition that fuses the intricate patterns of Arabic mosaics with the watchmaking art of cloisonné. Each watch in this trilogy features a dial adorned with a graphical pattern inspired by Arab Geometric Art. Additionally, a rose gold colour palette imparts these limited pieces with the hues of the desert.
The logical arrangement of dial colours on the DX3 gradually unfolds, with darker shades emerging as we move away from the central sub-dials. It is in the dark that the cloisonné design on the dial truly comes to life when the watch emits its gentle green glow with grade-A Super-LumiNova. This luminescent paint also adorns the numerals, like on all Ressence.
This final launch is accompanied by Ressence’s first book “Arts & Crafts in Motion,” limited to 200 copies. The publication offers insights into the genesis, craftsmanship, and fusion of Arab Geometric Art and Horological Decorative Art within the unique DX trilogy.
Ulysse Nardin – Freak [One OPS]
This new Freak One model measures 44mm in diameter and is cased in black DLC titanium, and complemented by a khaki green palette. It also has a special sunray-patterned barrel cover. The bezel is made of Carbonium, an innovative material with exceptional strength-to-lightness properties, that is produced using offcuts from aircraft manufacturing. Carbonium’s manufacturing process results in a marbled finish that is unique to each watch.
Given the watch has no dial, the Freak One OPS’s calibre UN-240 movement is clearly visible, its flying carousel simultaneously relaying the minutes indication as it rotates on its own axis. Also on display are the oversized oscillator and balance spring, both in captivating blue silicon. The movement is automatic and carries a weighty 90-hour power reserve. The watch comes with a choice of two integrated straps: one in black and khaki “ballistic” rubber, and an alternate two-tone rubber strap, also in black and khaki. Both have black DLC titanium and black ceramic folding clasps and are made using 30 per cent recycled rubber.