As always, Hublot has unveiled an impressive lineup of novelty models at the Watches & Wonders exhibition in Geneva. Here is our selection of the standouts from this year’s models, from the highly complicated to highly transparent, the ultralight or the highly bejewelled.
MP-13 TOURBILLON BI-AXIS RETROGRADE
The MP-13, for the first time, brings together a double-axis tourbillon and a dual retrograde display in one watch. Hublot is one of only a few watchmakers capable of manufacturing a double-axis tourbillon entirely in-house, having first done so with the MP-09 in 2017.
The 44 mm MP-13’s tourbillon completes a full rotation every minute on one axis, and every 30 seconds on the other. Having two speeds within the same mechanism creates a theatre that is both hypnotic and technical. Adding another layer of sophistication, the tourbillon is skeletonized and suspended. This architectural design grants the tourbillon a weightlessness not observed in traditional versions. It does away with the upper bridge, and each component is pared back to allow light to pass through unobstructed.
The MP-13 has a power reserve of at least four days or 96 hours. This is quite an impressive achievement when we consider that the movement it powers is bi-retrograde. These three variables of double-axis, bi-retrograde and four days of power are rarely seen together, as retrograde displays are energy-intensive. And a bi-retrograde variant, by definition, even more so.
This is also the first time Hublot has designed a bi-retrograde movement for both hours and minutes. While the minute hand moves steadily, the hour hand skips instantly from one hour to the next, both moving from left to right.
The HUB6200 Manual-winding movement is easy to set with the single crown at 3 o’clock. Winding through the minutes only moves the hours forward. This offers ease of use as well as preventing breakages caused by winding the hands backwards.
Like all models in the MP series, the MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis will only be produced as a very limited edition of 50 numbered pieces. Constructed entirely in titanium with a satin finish, the MP-13 is fastened with a black rubber strap.
BIG BANG INTEGRATED TOURBILLON FULL CARBON
This limited edition model, with only 50 pieces issued, fuses traditional watchmaking finesse with an innovative lightweight bracelet. On the technical side, the watch features a tourbillon and a micro-rotor. The latter is distinguished by its skeleton structure. The watch boasts three days of power reserve and an in-house movement. The tourbillon – skeletonized and suspended – is integrated within a bottom plate dotted with transparent sapphire bridges.
The strap – designed, manufactured and assembled in-house – delivers on two objectives. Firstly, it weighs just 26 grams, making it one of the lightest straps available today. Secondly, it is highly comfortable to wear thanks to its integration with the case, and because of the links designed exclusively for this model.
Each link is individually machined and finished to achieve the desired surface quality, which is quite a challenge with composite materials like Texalium and carbon fibre. These two elements respond differently to cutting, machining and chamfering.
The movement is housed in a 43 mm carbon fibre case. By using this construction, the watch head (case and calibre, without the strap) weighs just 42 grams. The watch casing is covered with Texalium, another new material that combines a fibreglass core with a thin top layer of aluminium. The fibreglass is integrated with a special resin to provide impact resistance, while the aluminium is 99.99% pure and scratch-resistant. Altogether, the watch weighs approximately as much as a “full carbon” case. The in-house HUB6035 Calibre is supported by an openwork back plate, allowing light to penetrate the heart of the movement.
SQUARE BANG UNICO, ELEVEN NEW MODELS
At the 2022 edition of Watches & Wonders, Hublot debuted its all-new square-shaped watch – the Square Bang Unico. At this year’s event, Hublot has added eleven new 42mm models to the collection.
The Square Bang Unico Sapphire, a limited edition of 250 pieces, features a multi-layered square sapphire case. Then there are two models in identical white and black ceramic case constructions. All three are powered by the MHUB1280 UNICO 2 self-winding chronograph flyback movement with a Power reserve of 72 hours. Both are fastened with the One Click compatible transparent structured rubber straps.
The Square Big Bang Unico in white gold, titanium and King Gold, are available in eight combinations of case material and jewellery settings. The “Diamonds & Pavé” models offer four combinations in two levels. In the first level, the bezel is set with 44 white diamonds at 1.9 carats. In the second level, both the case and bezel are paved with a total of 138 white diamonds, at 3.3 carats. In both levels, customers can choose between titanium or 18K King Gold for the case and bezel.
There are two “Jewellery” models with a bezel draped in 50 baguette diamonds, while the case is set with 94 diamonds, for a total of 144 stones at 4.4 carats. Once again, customers can choose between titanium or 18K King Gold for the case and bezel. The two “High Jewellery” models have the bezel and dial entirely covered with 285 diamonds, at almost 18 carats. Here, the case and bezel material options are 18K White Gold or 18K King Gold.
CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH ORLINSKI
In the sixth year of Hublot’s collaboration with renowned French artist Richard Orlinski, the signature sharp angles on the latest Hublot x Orlinski timepiece have become a little softer, the diameter has reduced, while the mechanism’s precision has increased.
The new Orlinski model has the Classic Fusion Chronograph’s HUB1153 automatic movement at its heart for the first time. The smaller 41mm case fits more snugly on the wrist. The signature dodecagonal shape of the bezel transforms into a polygon.
While the watch can be worn with a black rubber strap, it is the three-dimensional titanium bracelet with its distinctive angular patterns that enables the watch to realise its full potential. The micro-blasted titanium of the case and bracelet give the facets a matt finish, for an added touch of elegance.
BIG BANG INTEGRATED TOURBILLON FULL BLUE SAPPHIRE
The most expensive Hublot on display at this year’s Watches & Wonders is the newest Full Sapphire. As in previous models, the watch’s 43 mm case, bezel, case-back and integrated bracelet are all realised in polished sapphire crystal. However, as its name suggests, this year’s model debuts blue sapphire.
The only sapphire crystals not in blue are the ones used for the dial, top cover, and bridges. In keeping with the transparent ethos of the watch, the MHUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement is highly skeletonised, as with previous Full Sapphire models.
The movement’s tourbillon and micro-rotor achieve symmetrical balance with opposing placement at 6 and 12 o’clock respectively. The micro-rotor is in 22K white gold with a diamond bevel and sunray finish. It also bears the arching Hublot logo. The Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire watch is limited to just ten pieces.
