The iconic design of Portugieser watches, with their imposing size, simple Arabic numerals, slim feuille hands and railway-track-style chapter ring, originated in the 1930s, when it was well ahead of its time. Today, the original, clearly organised dial with its simple design remains a style icon. This summer IWC have added three new variants to the Portugieser Collection.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar was first developed in the 1980s and is still a hallmark of simplicity combined with technical elegance. All its displays are perfectly synchronized and can be advanced by merely turning the crown. This version is equipped with a double moon phase display, showing a mirror image of the moon as seen by observers in the northern and southern hemispheres. Perfectly matching the colour of the two moons are the silver-plated dial, and the 44.2 mm case made of shimmering platinum.
This version is the first watch in the current Portugieser Collection to have a perpetual calendar and a platinum case. The IWC-manufactured 52615 calibre movement ensures a precise rate; the time from now till the time when the moon phase display will need to be adjusted is 577.5 years. Fitted with components made of ceramic, the Pellaton automatic winding system builds up a power reserve of 7 days with the help of an 18-carat gold rotor. The highly embellished movement is visible through a see-through sapphire glass back. The strap is black alligator leather by Santoni Strap with a width of 22 mm.
IWC created the Portugieser Automatic almost 80 years ago. With its iconic design, it is instantly recognisable, but will still be perceived as fresh and modern. Today, the Portugieser Automatic beautifully expresses the typical design cues of this watch family, such as the appliquéd Arabic numerals, the railway track chapter ring, and the elegant feuille hands.
The newest addition to the family combines a silver-plated dial in a stainless-steel case with rhodium-plated hands and appliqués. The watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52010 calibre movement. Featuring an automatic Pellaton winding system fitted with components made of virtually wear-free ceramic, the rotor’s oscillating weight is equipped with an 18-carat gold medallion and builds up a power reserve of seven days in two barrels. The mechanical inner workings can be admired through the see-through sapphire-glass back. The watch is worn on a black alligator leather strap.
The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is the sportiest timepiece in a watch family steeped in tradition. The hour and minute counters are combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock. It is the only Portugieser model to feature luminescent hands and indices. Thanks to discreet modifications to the design, the chronograph now looks more luxurious, balanced with an overall look that’s deliberately casual.
It is powered by the rugged IWC-manufactured automatic, self-winding 89361-calibre movement which has a 68 hours Power Reserve and features 38 Jewels, Côtes de Genève and perlage. Water-resistant to 6 bar, the chronograph reveals its sporting qualities with a flyback function, an additional flange with a quarter-second scale for measuring short stop times and an analogue display for longer stop times on a subdial.
The 43.5 by 14.2 mm-millimetre stainless steel case has built-in protection for the screw-in crown. The dial is blue with white counters, rhodium-plated hands and a red second hand. The transparent case-back in sapphire crystal offers an unimpeded view of the mechanical inner workings of this sporty chronograph. An anti-reflective coating has been applied on both sides. Pleasant to wear and exceptionally rugged, the rubber strap perfectly complements the character of this stainless-steel watch: it is slim and sporty.