“Elegant, classic and decidedly contemporary,” is how Rolex describes the timepieces in its all-new Perpetual collection. Unveiled at the Watches & Wonders 2023, the collection debuts four Perpetual 1908 models – all are time only, in understated white and yellow gold cases, and possessing a modern-chic dressy aesthetic.
The Perpetual collection is widely rumoured to be a replacement for the brand’s Cellini collection, although there has been no official statement from the brand on the subject. If we were to compare the two, based on the initial models, the Perpetual model appears to be more of an everyday watch than a Cellini. While the latter is generally regarded as a suit-compatible watch, the Perpetual seems to be just as compatible with a jeans-and-shirt combo as it is with a suit.
The word “Perpetual” was chosen for the collection’s name because it was inspired by one of the first Rolex watches fitted with the perpetual rotor. The “1908” of its first models pays homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf, the band’s founder, settled on the name ‘Rolex’ for his watches and registered the brand’s trademark in Switzerland.
The elegant and understated 1908 watch features a slim 39 mm case in 18 ct yellow or white gold. It has a two-tiered bezel with the lower part elegantly fluting and the upper part domed. The curve of the lugs is highlighted thanks to gentle chamfering on their top edges. Complementing the partially domed bezel is the domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.
The case back is transparent – also sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating – which allows the technical and decorative aspects of the movement to be seen and admired. The case is “guaranteed” to be waterproof to a depth of 50 metres (165 feet).
The sleek dial, either “intense white” or “intense black” depending on the version, is graced with Arabic numerals – at the 3, 9 and 12 o’clock positions. The index hour markers are faceted. It also offers a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, with the words ‘Superlative Chronometer’ above it in an arc shape. The hour hand is distinctive with its circle just before the tip, while the minute hand resembles a two-edged sword.
The white dial has a slightly grainy finish, which gives it a bit of a luxuriant texture. The black dial noticeably matte finish. The colour, reflections and surface texture, along with decorative elements give the dial, and by extension the watch, its intrinsic character.
As with other Rolex models, all aspects of the dial are produced in-house, from the initial sketches to the final inspection. This includes the use of cutting-edge technologies such as magnetron sputtering, a complex technique for colouring the surface of a dial by depositing a thin film of material in a vacuum environment.
The 1908 is equipped with calibre 7140. This self-winding movement, also unveiled this year, is wholly developed and manufactured by Rolex. It enables the 1908 to display the small seconds in the sub-dial, as well as the central hours and minutes. It features the Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields.
The movement’s patented Syloxi silicon hairspring has a geometry that ensures the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed by the brand, to increase the movement’s shock resistance. The oscillating weight is fashioned in 18 ct yellow gold and is then fitted with an optimized ball bearing.
Its bridges are finished with the Rolex Côtes de Genève, a decoration that differs from traditional Côtes de Genève because of the slight polished groove between each band. Calibre 7140. It is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 7140 extends to approximately 66 hours.
The 1908 is fitted on an alligator leather strap. Matt brown or matt black, this elegant strap is tailored for the new watch. It has a green calfskin lining and tone-on-tone stitching. It is equipped with the brand’s Dualclasp – a double folding clasp – in 18 ct yellow or white gold. The Dualclasp is designed to sit centred on the wrist.
Like all Rolex watches, the Perpetual 1908 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
These in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, to assess its precision, power reserve, waterproofing and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is stated to be at “−2/+2 seconds per day,” which is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.
The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
